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It didn’t take long. Just 10 turns into my Steamboat ski fest – as I schussed through knee-deep snow in a gorgeous glade that didn’t relent – spontaneous hooting, hollering, and other unscripted utterances echoed in the aspens. A Canadian was on the loose in Colorado. And he was having a very good time.
Yes, three nights in a row of 15-cm dumps – in April, no less! – tends to facilitate some fun and frivolity. Especially when you’re in a place like “The Boat.”
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Located approximately 265 kilometres northwest of Denver in the powder-pounded Park Range of the Rocky Mountains, Steamboat Springs is a classic Colorado ski town that belongs in the upper tier. Known for its awesome aspen glades, its historic downtown just minutes from the slopes, its authentic western culture, its natural hot springs – and, yes, its legendary Champagne powder dumps! – Steamboat Springs definitely checks all the boxes for a memorable ski holiday.
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For Canadians (especially Calgarians), getting there also isn’t half bad. A shortish two-hour flight from Calgary into Denver followed by a beautiful three-hour drive (or a super-quick 45-minute flight into the tiny Hayden Regional Airport) is what’s required. (I did the latter.)
True, we do have great skiing in our Rockies right here in southern Alberta. However, the overall quality of the experience, the vibe, the town, the over-the-top amount of snow (at least last year), make for an entirely different kind of ski holiday. And it’s one that any alpine skiing aficionado should have on their bucket list.
Owned by the Alterra Mountain Company, a North American powerhouse when it comes to the ski industry, Steamboat is a massive ski resort. And it’s only getting bigger. (Alterra owns over a dozen ski resorts, including Mammoth Mountain in California, Deer Valley in Utah, Tremblant in Quebec, and many more. They also own the wildly popular IKON Pass, a season pass program that opens the door to ski at 58 ski destinations around the world, including a handful in Western Canada, at huge savings. www.ikonpass.com.)
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Thanks to an additional 625 acres of new expert terrain opening on Mahogany Ridge in 2024, Steamboat is now the second-largest ski resort in Colorado. (Only Vail is bigger.) Not surprisingly, the numbers are impressive: 3,741 skiable acres, 23 lifts, 182 trails, and 1,118 metres (3,668 feet) of elevation. Also, an impressive 98 winter Olympians have come out of Steamboat Springs, a figure that certainly justifies their trademarked moniker, “Ski Town U.S.A.”
And, yes, then there’s the snow. With a base elevation of 2,903 meters (6,900 feet) and a peak elevation of 3,224 metres (10,568 feet), well, you can understand the copious amounts of light-and-dry snow.
Last year at Steamboat, it received the second-highest snow total that’s ever been recorded there in one season; over 12 metres (about 40 feet) fell before closing day, which was April 16th.
So, understandably, considering the meagre snowpack levels in the Canadian Rockies last year, I was more than happy to try my luck south of the border. It was the right call. Of course, given the time of year, I was fully expecting morning ice and afternoon slush. I was wrong.
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Face shots and fresh turns were, for three days straight, the primary order of business. Thanks to the ski guide program, I got to know the mountain, including tricks for getting around, the best areas for my intermediate abilities, and some secret powder stashes. In a place as big as Steamboat, it was invaluable and I’d highly recommend this. (If nothing else, your guide can be your model for some awesome action shots in the aspens. Thanks, Dave!)
Without a doubt, the atmospheric aspect of skiing in the aspens was a highlight. We simply don’t have this type of skiing in Western Canada. The absence of tree wells, the spacing, the visibility (very few branches!), the ambient light that filters through; the summation is a beautiful brand of skiing that people of all abilities will enjoy.
But Steamboat’s unique “brand” goes far beyond the ski resort. The authentic Western culture is apparent throughout the town and surrounding countryside. For me, a horseback riding adventure at Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch yielded yet another winter adventure that was magical in its own way. (Yes, the trail our group rode traversed through a wonderful mountainside coated with, you guessed it, aspens!) Although the snow was deep – and more accumulated during our ride! – even the horses uttered some strange sounds of delight. (But, no, I don’t wholly understand “horse.” I know “Naaay!” That’s about it.)
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Some downtown shopping – I enjoyed wandering through FM Light & Sons, a 100-year-old mercantile selling quality cowboy gear – and a memorable midday soak in the amazing and somewhat-developed Strawberry Park Hot Springs were other activities I happily pursued.
Located a few miles down a rough logging road (a four-wheel drive vehicle is highly recommended), Strawberry Park is a one-off oasis with some strange little quirks. It’s cash only ($20 per person, must reserve online), clothing optional after dark, and operates off-the-grid with no power. However, if you have some adventurous bones in your body, you’ll absolutely love the place. The pools – and the beautiful natural surroundings – are simply stunning.
Fittingly, while I was enjoying my grand finale soak in the pools, a young couple entered the soothing waters and collectively emitted a string of joyful articulations something to the effect of “Ohhh! Ahhh! Yeah! Whoah!” Submerged in the steam, I thought: yes, in Steamboat, regardless if you’re soaking or skiing, this is local lingo that everyone seems to understand.
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